Gilles' Outlet

September 29, 2009

Repairing Orange Peel Wall Texture

Filed under: Uncategorized — Gilles @ 6:38 am

Orange Peel texture is repaired on a wall.


Skill Level: 2~3 (Basic~Moderate)

Time Taken: About 2 hours

During a repair, it became necessary to open the drywall under a bathroom vanity. The drywall was later patched but the smooth surface did not match the orange peel section of the wall (in dark green on the picture).

It is under the cupboard so I could have left it as is but I chose to repair it. This article explains how to patch orange peel texture after drywall repair.

When patching texture, it is necessary to choose the means by which the texture will be sprayed: using a texture repair can sold at most home centers or using a hopper connected to an air compressor (the tools used by pros when spraying texture).

In my experience, cans are expensive ($15 per can) and lead to a result which is not as nice as the traditional hopper. I typically use cans if I have to patch less than 16 sq. ft. and use an air compressor / hopper for larger patches.

In this article, I will be using a can. Before starting the texture, the surface of the patch must be smooth and sanded flush with the surface of the existing wall or the repair will show.

As this article will show, repairing a small section of orange peel texture is fairly simple and well within reach of a moderately handy homeowner.

Left: I disconnected all the plumbing. In order to spray, I need unobstructed access to the wall.

Right: the manufacturer of the texture can I will use recommends to prime new wallboard before applying texture so I used a small foam roller to apply a coat of “Killz primer and stain blocker”. This primer dries in about 1h.

Left: I used painter’s paper and masking tape to protect everything I do not want to be textured. When texturing, keep in mind that there will be overspray.

Right: A can of “Homax orange peel spray texture – water based”. It features an adjustable nozzle allowing to dial in the density of the texture.

I prefer the water based formula because if I mess up, I can easily wipe the texture off the wall with a wet sponge and do it again.

I went outside and used a piece of cardboard to practice spraying. I also turned the dial to get splatters similar in size to the ones on the wall to repair.

Left: When everything was dialed in, I shook the can one more time, held the can upright about 12~16 inches from the wall and pressed the trigger. I sprayed the area moving the can in a circular motion. I made sure to fill only up to 80% of the surface.

I also feathered-in the new texture by spraying slightly over the old texture where new wallboard meets old wallboard.

Right: Close-up of the texture immediately after it was sprayed. The typical orange peel splatters are well visible You cal also see how they cover about 80% of the surface (aka the flat surface of the wall is visible on some spots).

Left: Another view of the repaired area, immediately after spraying the patch.

Right: It took about 2h for the texture to be completely dry (the can said about 30 minutes but it took longer for me). After the texture was dry, I applied another coat of primer and then several coats of paints.

By looking at the finish result at the top of the article, it is almost impossible to see the patch.

Tools Used:

  • 4’’ foam roller.
  • Utility Knife.
  • Chemical resistant gloves.

Materials Used:

  • Homax – Orange Peel Texture can. 
  • Painter’s masking tape.
  • Painter’s masking paper.
  • KillZ stain blocker primer.


Removing Hardened Latex Caulk

Filed under: Uncategorized — Gilles @ 5:45 am

Very hard pure latex caulk is removed from a bath tub surround without damaging the tub finish.


Skill Level: 2 (Basic)

Time Taken: About 1 hour

The starting point of this article: a tub with a very poorly applied bead of caulk. While not visible on the picture, the caulk has cracked at several places. Not only it no longer seals around the tub, but it is downright ugly: this bead needs to be removed so a brand new one can be applied. Caulking over existing caulk never works.

Before I remove caulk, I always take a second to identify the type of caulk by simply touching it with the tip of my fingernail. If it is soft, it is pure silicone caulk. If it is very hard, it is pure latex caulk. If is it somewhat soft, it is siliconized latex caulk.

In this case, it turned out to be pure latex caulk. A very bad choice for tub surrounds because it dries hard and cracks at the smallest movement of either the tile or the tub. Tub surrounds are typically caulked with pure silicone caulk. It is flexible and will not crack as the tub moves. Most manufacturers also offer mildew resistant pure silicone caulk: well worth the price in damp areas like a bath tub.

BUT … removing very hard latex caulk without damaging he tub finish is tricky. In this article, I explain how I did it.

Left: A tube of DAP “Caulk Be Gone” specifically formulated for latex caulk. There is also a version for pure silicone caulk. I purchased this item at a Lowes store.

I first read the label entirely before proceeding. It called for lots of ventilation and  chemical resistant gloves. I respected those.

Right: I cut the tip at a 45 degree angle and applied a generous bead of product over the existing bead of caulk. I made sure that the whole bead of caulk was completely covered. The product starts liquid like water and very quickly because a jello like substance.

Left: View of the bead applied. Now, instructions demand to wait for at least 2 hours. My experience tells me that rushing the process just won’t work so I performed other tasks….

Right: … and returned two hours and half after application. Using a 1 1/2’’ putty knife, I scraped the first few inches of caulk from the tiles. It came very easily. I could just gently slide the knife under the bead and separate it from the tub without damaging the finish.

Left: After freeing a rope of about 5’’ of caulk, I was able to pick up the caulk and pull gently on it. It then came very easily. At some point, it broke. No big deal: I scraped a little more and repeated the process.

Old caulk and used green gel are placed in a plastic garbage bag and disposed in the trash.

Right: After removing the whole caulk, I cleaned the area thoroughly with lots of fresh water. If the product can soften caulk, I may prevent new caulk from sticking so I made sure I remove as much of the product as possible.

Tools Used:

  • Sponge.
  • 1 1/2’’ putty knife.
  • Chemical resistant gloves.

Materials Used:

  • DAP “Caulk Be Gone” Latex Caulk remover. 
  • Lots of fresh water.

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